Our Lavender Journey
When we moved to Boulder, I knew I wanted to start a flower farm on our property. We have just the right amount of space to make flower farming a real side hustle. I decided to start with lavender, because it grows well in Colorado. It can withstand the extreme temperature variances between the summer and winter. Lavender is also a good option for xeriscaping because it thrives with little water. I did some soil mapping through NRCS’s website to understand the best place on the property to plant. We also bought this soil testing kit on Amazon. We tilled an area in the back pasture to plant lavender in rows. Several lavender varieties are well-suited to Colorado's climate: English lavender (Lavandula angustifolia) and French lavender (Lavandula dentata) are often good choices, as they tolerate colder temperatures. I learned a lot from this article by the University of Colorado’s Extension Office.
In September, I purchased 20 lavender plants from Finding Nectar, a local nursery specializing in pollinator and native plants, in Arvada. After researching and preparing to grow lavender, here’s a few things I’ve learned so far:
Sunshine is Key: Lavender thrives in full sun. Plant your lavender in a location where it receives at least 6-8 hours of direct sun each day. I planted mine in a few different areas in our back field to test out. There’s a large cottonwood that gives a lot of shade to the area, and so far, those plants seem to be doing slightly better than the ones in unobstructed sun.
Well-Drained Soil: Lavender prefers well-drained, slightly alkaline soil. In Colorado, the soil can be clayey, so amending it with sand or gravel can improve drainage. North Boulder has fairly loamy soil, so I am less worried about clay and more concerned with making sure my soil is draining well. Raised beds can also be a good option to ensure proper drainage. As there are no major pest issues for lavender in Colorado, proper drainage is one of the most important issues to prevent root rot.
Moderate Watering: Lavender is drought-tolerant once established. Water sparingly, allowing the soil to dry out between waterings to avoid the risk of root rot. Water at the base of the plant to keep foliage dry and prevent diseases.
Mulching Matters: Applying a layer of mulch around the base of the plant before winter can help insulate the roots. A layer of gravel or coarse mulch around the lavender plants, is better than organic mulches, which can trap moisture. This will help in retaining soil moisture, preventing weeds, and providing additional drainage.
Fertilize Sparingly: Lavender doesn't require heavy feeding. Use a balanced, slow-release fertilizer in the spring when new growth begins. Avoid high-nitrogen fertilizers, as they can encourage excessive foliage growth at the expense of flowers.
Pruning for Shape and Health: Prune lavender in the spring to promote bushiness and improve air circulation. Remove spent flower stems to encourage continuous blooming. Be cautious not to cut all the way into the old wood, as lavender may struggle to regenerate from it.
Harvest Thoughtfully: Harvest lavender flowers when they're in full bloom but before they start to fade. This is usually in the morning after the dew has dried. Hang harvested stems upside down in a dark, well-ventilated area to dry.
Companion Planting: Rosemary thrive alongside lavender because it loves similar conditions. This can create a harmonious and visually appealing garden while also benefiting the overall health of the plants. I haven’t planted any rosemary yet, but I’m thinking to start them in my Lettuce Grow hydroponics station, and then transfer them once the weather warms up. I’ll keep you all posted!
Next spring, I plan to plant at least 20 more depending on which areas grow best over the winter. After we have several hundred plants to work with, I’ll work on turning the plants into products like oils and soaps.